Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Sew for Victory-ish

I cannot believe it's April 1st, which meeeeaaaans I only have 29 days left in the Sew for Victory sew along to get my shit together and rolling. I've really been meaning to do more crafting and sewing, and I was really hoping doing something with a vague deadline would get my ass in gear but alas and alack.

Because of my size, it's hard to find actual vintage patterns that will fit me, and I don't know how to scale patterns up to a size I can work with, so if I do anything at all I'm going to have to fudge a modern pattern into something "inspired by" the decade instead of using an actual period pattern. I wanted to not have to buy a new pattern, since I never seem to hit Joann when it actually has pattern sales (side note- it seems like they used to be on sale every weekend, and now they're never on sale?! What the hell?!), plus I wasn't really excited about any of the 1940s retro patterns offered by the pattern companies. Browsing through Pinterst, ie 90% of my waking hours, I decided that what I really wanted to make was an Eisenhower jacket.

via past perfect vintage blog

http://www.lib.ncsu.edu/exhibits/gibill/images/VeaseySeated.jpg
Staff Sgt Millie Veasey, NCSU Library Archives

via FromEveWithLove

 I have very limited financial means right now and wanted to be able to make something but not spend an arm and a leg, which has meant cutting a few corners and  putting off buying the fabric to make the actual garment. There was a good sale going on at Denver Fabrics, but of course, the sale ran out before I had extra cash. I've checked at Joann, and big surprise here, their selection is next to nothing. There was one type of twill that will have to work for the project if it's all there is. I'm putting off buying the materials until next payday, which leaves me about two weeks to meet the end of month deadline. That is, if  the fabric is still in stock.Cross your fingers.

I looked through the pattern companies websites and their books at Joann, and literally none of them had anything that could be mistaken for an Eisenhower jacket. Not even close. Everything had princess seams, or some weird detail that didn't match the shape I was looking for. So, I ended up just buying the only Butterick See & Sew pattern that had a blazer option because, well, it was 2.99. The collar is all wrong- a notched shawl collar- but the body is boxy enough and without princess seams that I'm pretty sure I can fix it.



Oops, I forgot to add the chest pockets, but you get the gist.

I made a muslin version of the jacket as instructed by the pattern and it actually came together rather easily and looked ok. Not like I need it to, but ok for what it was. From that basic pattern, I was able to cut the muslin into a new pattern, with a closer to right collar, shortened length and appropriate blousiness. Once I add a strap along the bottom hem, it'll really help to blouse the jacket out to fit the original silhouette.

I have no idea how it'll look once I get the real fabric and start trying to wing it then. I guess it'll be a good learning experience either way. I actually checked out a copy of Vogue's New Sewing book from work to help with winging it, which is a new step in 'creative construction' for me. Usually I just do it when I try and make something up as I go, but I wanted the end result to actually be something I like.  I took sewing class when I was very small and first learning to sew, but have never had any professional instruction, and have never really read a sewing how-to book. I never thought I could get much out of it, because I wasn't an absolute beginner. I didn't need to be told how to thread a machine or how to read a pattern, which is what I always saw in sewing books.  I happened to pick that book up at work just out of curiosity and it sold  me by blowing my mind and offering the advice of setting in a sleeve flat instead of sewing up the side and trying to ease the top. WHAAAA???? THE HOURS I HAVE WASTED.

Anyway, I'm hoping that I will be able to finish (er and start) the project on time. Or at all, for that matter.

EDIT:
I forgot to mention that I found a tv tray at goodwill today for only $4, so I will be able to actually sew in a chair at a "desk". Hopefully that will ease the back pain I've been experiencing while sewing hunched over and using the chair as a table!

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